
The return to Rome is always like coming here for the first time. It's overwhelming. You fall in love. And you are captivated under its spell once more. This is what happens to me every time I step into the Italian capital.
Each visit has been different in different circumstances and with different expectations. I've been alone for backpacking holiday. I have visited it working while travelling with a group of Argentine tourists. With friends. This last time, perhaps more relaxed, with my partner, we were able to enjoy Rome abstracting a little from the hectic pace. And emphasizing our inner time, and basic experiences.
Images and sounds from the crowds. Art and culture in our way. Fragrances and flavors, following our palate. And these past experiences I was able to extract some culinary tips from around Rome.
Trastevere
Start here because it is the place that we liked from the point of view of the restaurants and trattorias. Following the course of Tevere Tiber from the Vatican or to the south (about 15 minutes walk), or across central Rome from the Ponte Garibaldi right at the beginning of the Isola Tiberina, you will get to the heart of this neighborhood.
While tourism prevails, the essence lies in its architecture and character of its people. Choose any small trattoria, those who place 2 or 3 tables on the street. Flee the large terraces overlooking the river, which are made for the tourists.
One of those places you want in the streets of Trastevere, is La Scaletta. We arrived at this trattoria wandering around without any recommendations, and guided only by instinct (and a delicious sauce scent coming out of the kitchen). Now I see that also recommended in the gastronomic guide Housetrip (which you can download in PDF to take it with you to enjoy Rome).
My recommendation: artichokes in any of its versions, linguine al pomodoro e polpette (photo) or spaghetti alla carbonara di tonno.
Central Rome
It is true that you can find exceptions: in front of the Trevi Fountain, there is a very economical pizzeria selling huge portions at a great price. But next door there is an ice cream and gelatto as rich as uranium.
Usually a few meters, "just around the corner" you'll find, economic and more authentic options.
For example: a few meters from Piazza Navona is fotografiadísima dei Coronari street (beautiful), and you will find the local Pasta Imperiali. A unique, cheap and curious place: pasta take away, fast food or pasta, but to your taste and fatto in casa. Choose pasta and sauce you want and you take your portion made at the time for very good price.
My recommendation: all'amatriciana typical Roman bucatini or spaghetti alla vongole.
Of course you will find all the options of "food stalls" portioned pizza, sandwiches, ice cream, hot dogs, hamburgers, and so on. But my recommendation is that you follow where your "nose" takes you.
Well we found a tiny trattoria near Lungo Argentina, I think it was calle dei Barbieri. You can not miss it: checkered tablecloths, 2 tables on the street, another 4 in front shelling, iron cartel and a fat and friendly waitress who carried in her apron the "decorations" of all sauces on the menu. Unforgettable abbachio (lamb) with sage and coda alla vaccinara which is a local version of oxtail.
Here are some recommendations for eating in Rome, following my own palate. I hope you serve for enjoying the Italian capital and its flavors.
No comments:
Post a Comment